If there is another place in the world whose mere mention conjures up such intrigue and inspiration as Antarctica, I am yet to find out about it. For me, Antarctica is a story rendered up by torch light on a dark winter’s evening, a glimpse into another planet uninhabited by human beings and the living embodiment of peace. All of which is to say that for my first trip there my expectations were riding pretty high.
There was also a side order of trepidation mixed in with the excitement as I landed in Ushuaia to join my ship. I spent my day job at Swoop helping travellers get ready for their big trip, but this was where I would really put my knowledge to the test.
I had never gone on a cruise before so I was unsure how I would feel sharing a vessel with lots of strangers. I was really excited to see the wildlife and landscapes but wondered if the day to day activities would be varied enough. How would I fare if the Drake Passage decided to shake rather than be a still lake? And the biggest question of all: was it really going to be as amazing as I dreamed when I got there?
I sailed on the Sylvia Earle on Swoop’s Antarctic Peninsula Explorer trip. Its unfamiliar X-bow design promised a smoother passage through the waves than more traditional ships. The weather forecast made me grateful for this, as we did indeed experience some big seas while on the Drake.
On the first night I took a precautionary seasickness tablet and played it safe by staying in my cabin with a good audiobook. The expedition team were fantastic at updating us on the forecast, and by the next morning the swell had calmed down considerably, and I was hungry for breakfast and exploring the ship in equal measure. I was definitely finding my sea legs.
Day two was also a sea day, spent attending some of the educational talks held by the expedition team. There was also a grand ‘biosecurity party’ to begin to get us really ready for the White Continent.
What’s a biosecurity party you ask? Well, all visitors to Antarctica must make sure they’re playing their part in protecting this near-pristine environment, so all the gear you wear – from your boots down to the velcro on your jackets is thoroughly checked and cleaned to make sure no one accidentally introduces any pathogens or invasive species, whether that’s bugs or seeds.
Passengers are sometimes concerned about these checks, but by holding a party with everyone bringing their gear to be inspected (and sometimes scrubbed), this serious business quickly becomes a jolly affair. Who would imagine they’d be out on the Southern Ocean, hoovering their daypack?
For all this, it wasn’t until we spotted our first iceberg that I began to believe that Antarctica was becoming a real place, rather than the fairy-tale in my head. I got a fantastic view from my balcony, and a chill of anticipation as I drank in the freezing air. This was what I came here for!
Our first stop was at Deception Island. From a distance it looks like a normal island, but it’s actually the collapsed caldera of an active volcano with a hidden entrance through which ships can navigate into a sweeping natural harbour.
Things got even more exciting when we got into the zodiacs for the first time and headed for the shore. Within minutes of stepping foot on an Antarctic beach I spotted my first penguin and instantly regressed to childhood.
Part of the biosecurity rules means that you mustn’t get closer than 5 metres to the wildlife. No one seems to have told the penguins this though, so we would gently retreat each time one became curious about who we were. But 5 metres is still pretty close if you’ve only seen one on television!
They seemed to sing to one another and mixed up their waddling with casual belly slides across the snow. This is where I learned another important polar lesson: you’ll take more photos than you ever imagined. Back on the ship, the internet was so good that I was able to send shots back to my children at home who were fascinated to see Antarctica through their mother’s eyes (if also a little frustrated to still be going to school when they could have been hanging out with penguins).
And so the trip unfolded. At the end of each amazing day I was left convinced that the expedition team would be unable to top it, but the next day they seemed to do it all over again, Antarctica is a bit of a magic trick as well, it seems.
One of the many highlights was visiting the iceberg graveyard in Pleneau Bay and finding ourselves lost in a myriad of blue and white contoured icebergs, with our zodiac coolly gliding through surreal ice sculptures as the brash ice tinkled glassily around us. I’m not ashamed to say I was moved to tears. To be in this place felt truly humbling. It spoke to the very core of my soul.
I also took a dry bag to put my camera inside and a waterproof phone case. This meant that I could still take photos when we experienced a sudden snowstorm on Cuverville Island and not worry about my gear getting wet when Antarctica gave us a taste of just how wild it can really be.
If I had one wish it was that I would have packed a couple more vest tops and t-shirts for the ship, but at least there was a laundry service available on board that brought everything back washed and beautifully ironed, so it was never a huge drama.
Taking the polar plunge
Of course, you can’t wax poetic if you’re not properly dressed. Zodiac cruises are notoriously cold, and I was glad to have diligently followed the packing list. We had waterproof parkas provided, but I was just as thankful for investing in a good pair of waterproof trousers. Most of the landings we did were wet landings, so we were stepping in and out of the sea, but even on zodiac cruises the lightest wind could whip up waves to splash us. It’s true what they say about there being no such thing as bad weather if you have the right clothing.
One activity where you definitely don’t need many clothes is the polar plunge. At home I’m a keen river swimmer, but on the day itself, I definitely felt a kaleidoscope of butterflies taking up residence in my tummy.
Once I got to the mud room however, the atmosphere was electric. They were playing disco music over the tannoy to get us pumped out, and as each swimmer headed out into the cold, we cheered them on. Those taking part were a mixture of all ages, sizes and sexes with zero judgement and lashings of encouragement. The ship’s doctor gave a quick safety briefing and the onboard expedition manager ensured we all knew what to expect and what we should and should not do.
Then it was time for me. Snow was falling as I made my way out onto the platform, which made everything seem even more surreal. As I made my jump, time seemed to slow down, only to accelerate at a hundred miles an hour when I hit the water. This was an immersive experience like no other!
I swam a few strokes back to the landing platform where the zodiac manager was waiting to help pull me out of the water. There were more cheers as I grinned in disbelief. I felt elated but within moments my feet started to remind me just what temperature it was where I was standing so I rushed back up to my cabin for a warm shower. The celebrations of us plungers in the lounge that night were terrific. What a crazy thing to do!
The day to day of expedition cruising in Antarctica is all about expecting the unexpected. It was a perfect reminder to take each day as it comes. Sometimes plans changed and we were very much guided by weather conditions. As a mum of two children, I am used to making sure everything at home is running smoothly and everyone has what they need. On a polar cruise the expedition team takes control and it is really liberating to be surprised by new adventures and looked after so well.
I also needn’t have worried about what cruising passengers would be like. Everyone on board was friendly and of like minds. I always felt confident that if I went to dinner alone, I would soon be having great conversations with new friends and with the guides.
So, did Antarctica deliver? After years of working in the travel industry, it was one of the most extraordinary experiences I’ve had. My kids are probably looking forward to when I stop talking about penguins and icebergs though!
