Deep inside the Arctic Circle only 500 miles from the North Pole, yet easily accessible from Europe and with more polar bears than humans, Svalbard beckons the adventurer. Never one to turn down a challenge, Swoop’s very own Lauren headed to Svalbard to see what it has to offer and know more about the third region that Swoop now offers to customers for exploration and adventure in one of the world’s most breathtaking landscapes.
Lauren: For seven days we enjoyed zodiac cruises, hikes and distant views of whales and walrus. Each night we were rocked into slumber by gentle waves. The ‘Fluffy White Things’ proved quite elusive, but no-one seemed to mind. We were in the high Arctic after all, exploring the end of the world.
Plancius sailed from Longyearbyen (Long-year-be-en), the capital of the island of Spitsbergen and the Svalbard archipelago. As we pushed north, things started to get interesting: our first full day brought several walrus sightings, an arctic fox and then a bearded seal, who teased us by popping up alongside each zodiac (a small motorised craft) to say hello. We marvelled at the low rumble of a calving glacier. After a long day of activities, I sleepily headed to my cabin.
We soon slipped into a soothing daily routine: zodiac cruises or landings when we weren’t weaving through the pack ice; lectures from the expedition staff when we were; three hot meals a day; and plenty of time on deck in between, staring in awe at the wintry world around us. The lounge became a hub of people and parkas, woolly hats, binoculars and photographic equipment – we were ready to ‘gear up’ the moment a Fluffy White Thing was sighted.
Meanwhile, I fell in love with ice. As the captain navigated a path to 81 degrees north, I perched like an Arctic tern in the little observation deck above the bow, watching the ship gently break through the plates of pack ice, each bringing a satisfying light shudder. During our first zodiac trip the sun reflected magically off the ice, little bergs cracking and popping as we cruised past them.
Gerard, one of our guides, gave an intriguing lecture on the subject: who knew that not every ice berg was an Ice Berg? He introduced us to Brash, Growlers and Bergy Bits too. Lectures on Longyearbyen, Walrus and Fluffy White Things followed. The staff are passionate and contagious – they are all fatally infected with ‘polar fever’.
I was surprised by how remote and isolated we were and, even at the end of the summer, how truly polar Svalbard felt. I’d imagined sailing around a cluster of tundra-esque islands, but the archipelago has an area of around 24,000 square miles which – in good conditions and with no ice – would take around 7 days to circumnavigate. Each bay and inlet is peppered with glaciers and mountains, and out in the vast northern pack ice I felt a million miles from home. I was surprised by how changeable the weather was, too – snow one minute, glorious sun the next, how crystal clear – and at times seemingly tropical – the ocean was, and how thoroughly dependant on the crew and expedition staff we were. I was surprised by how surprised I was.
The wildlife didn’t disappoint. We saw bearded seals, a huge herd of smelly walrus, blue whales, reindeer and were spoilt with daily sea bird sightings (Arctic terns, black guillemots, ivory gulls and kittiwakes). With the help of binoculars we spotted, at last, three polar bears, their creamy-white fur distinguishing them from the pure white snow.
The novelty of playing explorer never wore off – each day felt just as thrilling as the first. The crew and expedition staff worked so incredibly hard to make sure we had the trip of a lifetime, all the while keeping us safe in such a remote part of the world. I gained at least 5 pounds (special thanks to Roger, the ship’s baker), a new group of friends and more glorious GoPro footage than I know what to do with. It’s 2 weeks since I disembarked Plancius, and when I close my eyes I can still feel her gently rolling.
Lauren travelled to Svalbard on the Plancius in September 2016. To see more of her photos, check out her album below, and if you’d like Swoop to help you book the Arctic adventure of a lifetime, get in touch.
