It’s always an exciting moment when a new vessel joins the polar fleet. Autumn 2022 brought another arrival in the shape of the Sylvia Earle. Named for the celebrated marine biologist, its striking X-Bow hull cuts a neat dash through the waves. The Sylvia Earle carries an average of just 132 passengers, promising an intimate experience for all guests. I was lucky enough to be the first member of the Swoop Antarctica team to get on board and join our Crossing the Antarctic Circle trip to learn just how the ship performs in polar waters.
My cabin on the Sylvia Earle
After boarding in Ushuaia I was shown to my cabin. Home for the next 11 nights was cabin 426, a private balcony stateroom on deck four. I was surprised at how spacious and cleverly laid out it was, with plenty of storage and plugs for charging my gear. The bathroom was also generously sized – only later after we returned from our first Antarctic landings did I realise what a practical touch it was to equip it with heated floors and towel rails for drying off gear.
My favourite feature by far however was the balcony. Just over two thirds of the cabins on the Sylvia Earle have balconies, and the attraction was immediately apparent. Huge floor to ceiling windows really let the light flood in. I soon discovered that one of the best things about the ship was waking up in the morning and having a beautiful view outside to the incredible scenery right there. Antarctica from your pillow! You could easily watch seabirds gliding past while brushing your teeth, or delay going to bed for five more minutes while you scanned the sea for the blow of a humpback whale.
First impressions of the Sylvia Earle
Once checked in I was eager to explore. Despite being a relatively compact ship, the Sylvia Earle always gave the impression of being a very spacious vessel. This was especially true in the forward bow. On some X-bow ships, this spot can often be a bit of an underused space, however the designers here had cleverly utilised the structure to form a double height atrium with large triangular windows to fill the space with light.
Another reason for the sense of space was that it never took long to get out onto the deck spaces, so there was always plenty of space for passengers to spread out. One of the most popular places was the observation lounge on deck eight, where you could relax at any time of the day. It also had immediate access to an outside deck area with sweeping 270-degree views. This was a favourite for birdwatchers scanning the horizon, but also provided a platform for several great whale watching encounters. Another observation deck a level below on deck seven but immediately outside the bridge offered the same amazing views.
When we weren’t outside (and I spent a lot of time outside, wrapped up warm in my cosy and complimentary jacket), deck five was home to the lounge and bar. This was an ideal space for relaxing with a book from the polar library, warming up with a cup of tea after a landing or just relaxing with fellow explorers with a glass of wine before dinner.
Deck five was also where a lot of the other important things on the cruise took place: learning about Antarctica and eating well. Next to that stunning atrium was an area set up for citizen science, and behind that the lecture theatre where our guides treated us to a series of educational talks on everything polar from penguin life cycles and the classification of sea ice to the history of Antarctica.
Meals were served in the buffet restaurant on the same deck, but for those who wanted something a little different there was also the option of the Rockhopper, a small à la carte restaurant on deck eight. It was open most days except on open sea days, and you could book into it to eat as many times as you liked, subject to availability. They served à la carte breakfast and lunch, then converted it into a grill station for dinner, where you could enjoy steaks and other dishes. It had tremendous views, and was right next to my favourite observation deck, making it easy to dash outside in case the call went out for a whale or an iceberg.
Life on board the Sylvia Earle
My time on the Sylvia Earle was the first voyage I had done on one of the new X-Bow ships. This radical design with the ship’s bow curving into the water rather than rising above it really did make a difference in terms of stability. Despite a relatively lively crossing of the Drake Passage on the outward trip, I wasn’t as seasick as I have been on other ships and ferries. During the trip the captain mentioned that the bow and stabilisers significantly reduced the ship’s roll. I’d definitely agree. It’s not a complete panacea of course (there was still some movement as we crossed that most famous of waterways), but my stomach definitely thanked me for the easier ride.
Of course, being on the ship is only part of an Antarctic cruise – getting off for landings and zodiac cruises is what we were all there for. Here, the Sylvia Earle excelled. There were two landing exit points for zodiacs at the rear of the ship that meant that we could always disembark smoothly. The captain could actually tilt the ship by about four or five degrees using the ballast tanks so that you could just step straight into the zodiac out through the watertight doors. A mudroom also meant that we didn’t have to walk through the ship with our muck boots and parkas: good for keeping cool before a landing as well as staying drier on our return.
As well as these classic polar activities, plenty of passengers took advantage of being able to take part in other extra paid options like kayaking and snorkelling. I chose to stick to collecting phytoplankton for a citizen science project and doing the polar plunge. The two proved unexpectedly connected. As part of the phytoplankton survey we had to record the temperature of the water, which was just a shade over freezing point. Later that day, our guides reminded us of that fact as we stripped down to jump into the Southern Ocean. For those few seconds it felt even colder! I was certainly thankful for the outside jacuzzi to warm up in.
As on any polar cruise, the guides were the intangible extra that made the trip really sing. Sylvia Earle’s team were exemplary, with an extraordinary depth of experience. One guide had been the photographer for an ascent of Everest in addition to years of Antarctic experience; another had been a research scientist and over-wintered with an emperor penguin colony in one of the harshest environments on the planet. On learning that, even the polar plunge didn’t feel so cold.
Who is the Sylvia Earle suited for?
It was a fantastic experience to sail on the Sylvia Earle during her inaugural season. No end of thought has gone into its design, and the spacious balcony cabins with their enormous windows are a reminder that polar cruising has come a long way since the days of bunking down in converted research ships with no stabilisers to calm your passage through rough seas.
The guiding team brought vast experience and knowledge about Antarctica. They made the journey educational, fun, and enriched the whole experience. The size of the ship was perfect, allowing for plenty of deck space, and the like-minded people on board who were all there for a rich and immersive Antarctic experience. From the lectures to the efficient landings and zodiac cruises, the Sylvia Earle offered a smooth and memorable experience.
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