Since its launch in 2021, the expedition cruise ship Ultramarine has rapidly become a popular choice for Swoop Antarctica passengers. Its modern design, 1A+ ice class rating (putting it just shy of being an actual icebreaker) , 199 berths and broad suite of adventure activities have all helped establish its place in the polar fleet. As we pride ourselves on our knowledge of the full polar fleet here at Swoop I had to head down to Antarctica to experience everything the Ultramarine had to offer.
My cabin on Ultramarine
After boarding in Ushuaia with my Swoop colleague Daniel we were shown to our cabin. Home for the next 12 nights was cabin 321, one of the Explorer Suites on Deck Three, the same deck as the ship’s reception, and fantastically close to the embarkation point for zodiac excursions.
I was pleasantly surprised by how generously sized the cabin was – a massive 285 ft sq (26.5 m2). The suite was divided into two distinct areas – one for sleeping and one for relaxing. In the latter there was a large L-shaped sofa that was large enough to allow a moment of quiet book reading to comfortably slip into some comfy nap time. There was also a desk big enough for a laptop and a wall-mounted TV screen that allowed us to tune into the live-streamed onboard talks from the guides throughout the voyage.
The suite had a large window that let in plenty of light. On the higher decks, the suites have balconies. While having a private balcony is a huge bonus (they’re great for feeling instantly connected with the outside world from the moment you wake up), I tend to spend so much time out on deck that I didn’t feel as though I was missing out too much. I’ve enjoyed them on previous voyages, but Ultramarine had plenty going on to stop me lingering in the cabin too long.
When it came to the day to day, one thoughtful feature I quickly learned to appreciate was the heated floors in the bathrooms. They made a nice extra touch when you came in after a chilly zodiac cruise.
On other ships, I might have used that to help dry off my gear after an excursion, but though the suite had more than ample storage, in practice I often found that I could leave a lot my gear like my parka and boots in Ultramarine’s dedicated mud room, where we would get ready to board the zodiacs.
First impressions of Ultramarine
As we pulled away into the Beagle Channel and started our crossing of the Drake Passage, there was plenty of time to explore. Although Ultramarine carries just under 200 passengers, there was ample space everywhere for people to spread out and the atmosphere was surprisingly cosy.
For those wanting to ease themselves into the voyage, the Tundra Spa offered some pampering, while the fitness centre helped burn off the calories that would inevitably be consumed in the restaurant or bistro. It was great to have a choice of places to eat: the Balena Restaurant was a big social space with enormous wraparound glass windows and plenty of space to dine with newly-met friends. The Bistro was more low-key – I often came here for a cafe-style lunch, but it was nice to mix it up.
During the voyage there were a few places I found myself gravitating to again and again. When I wanted to be inside to warm up, I would head for the Panorama Lounge and Bar on Deck Seven. This was a relaxed and comfortable space with tall wraparound windows that meant that even if you were enjoying a coffee or a glass of wine you always felt connected to the outside. It’s a lovely feeling to be sat in a cosy chair and watch petrels and albatrosses zip past while you’re crossing the Drake Passage. There was also an outside deck area if you wanted to rush outside with your binoculars.
The lounge was also home to informal talks from different members of the expedition team. These took place after dinner, and had a great atmosphere as everyone relaxed with a drink after another day out in the ice and snow. During sea days, these were complemented with lectures from the guides in the Ultramarine’s theatre, with the expedition team’s experts holding forth on everything from penguin behaviour and Shackleton’s adventures to the life cycle of a glacier.
Life on board Ultramarine
When I wanted to be out on deck, there were a couple of locations I particularly enjoyed. Deck Five was the most popular spot for bird and whale watching, as it wrapped all the way around the ship. Personally, I liked the outside space forward on Deck Six, as it also had access to the bridge (Ultramarine also has an open bridge policy, so you can always pop in to find out where the ship is heading). This was a popular spot for the really serious photographers. Over the course of the trip I also developed a fondness for the outside space on Deck Four. This was actually the designated smoking area, and while I don’t smoke myself it was very sheltered on the side of the ship and never very busy: we had some great wildlife watching here.
Of course, expedition cruising is about getting off the ship, and it was here that Ultramarine really had something special to offer. Its two helicopters offered flightseeing trips to see Antarctica from a wonderfully unique angle, as well as providing access to remote locations like the emperor penguin colony at Snow Hill.
On the water, the extendable platforms on Deck Two at the rear of the ship meant that embarking into the zodiacs was always a smooth affair. We were divided into landing groups and would wait in our cabins to be called to disembark, but because two zodiacs could be loaded at any one time, there was never any significant wait. That’s no mean feat when dealing with a full complement of passengers.
A smooth disembarkation counts for little unless you’ve got the team to back it up. Ultramarine’s guides were some of the best I’ve come across. They were an amazing 40-strong group, adding up to over 150 years of experience out on the ice. All were approachable and sociable, whether they were pointing out wildlife, sharing photography tips or just swapping stories as they joined us for dinner each night.
Who is Ultramarine suited to?
Ultramarine is one of the most comfortable Antarctic cruise ships I’ve yet sailed on. Its relative newness means that the ship designers were able to incorporate the best of modern cruise ship design with the needs of an expedition ship operating in tough Antarctic conditions.
The addition of helicopters for sightseeing is a spectacular and extremely rare feature, as it gives all on board a rare and special chance to experience Antarctica from the air.
For me, Ultramarine’s expedition team was another major trump card. Most had worked together for many years and felt fiercely loyal to Antarctica and proud to share it with us. The number of guides and the smart zodiac operations meant that Ultramarine’s capacity was always handled smoothly, giving us the maximum time to enjoy landings and zodiac cruises, getting up close to Antarctica in true comfort and style.
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