A trip to the Antarctic Peninsula and South Georgia is the trip of a lifetime for many, taking in some of the most sublime nature anywhere in the world, from icebergs sculpted by a surrealist hand to the cacophony of hundreds of thousands of penguins in a single colony. These cruises also take in a third destination that’s often overlooked in favour of the big headline grabbers: the Falkland Islands.
This tiny archipelago deserves to be known as so much more than just an afterthought. As the author of the Bradt Guide to the Falkland Islands I know them and their amazing wildlife inside out and want to share some of the best locations visited by expedition cruise ships, to get you as excited as I am about landing on their shores.
When you sail to the Falkland Islands from Ushuaia, you’ll find an increasing abundance of wildlife even before you sight land. By the time the cliffs of New Island in the southwestern corner of the archipelago come into view, there will be a host of elegant black-browed albatrosses skimming the ocean, along with the chunky and ever-present southern giant petrels and a mix of smaller seabirds from prions to storm petrels. Small groups of southern fur seals can often be seen porpoising their way through the water on the edge of the tide races and it was here that I saw my first ever Southern Right Whale as it surfaced close to the ship.
Home of the albatross
Although cruise ship itineraries can never be guaranteed, New Island is a common first stop for many ships. Landings are made on a sandy beach alongside the wreck of Protector III that was beached here in the 1960s. The ship is often home to roosting black-crowned night herons, while a variety of ducks and waders feed along the shore. From here a grassy path leads up over the island to a set of cliffs that are home to an enormous seabird colony. Imperial cormorants, kelp and dolphin gulls all swirl overhead along with the Black-browed Albatrosses that are breeding here. The cliffs are packed with nesting albatrosses along with a very vocal colony of rockhopper penguins. It’s a photographer’s dream and one of the Falkland Islands’ truly great wildlife spectacles.
A few hours sail to the north is West Point, which is home to another very large mixed colony of rockhopper penguins and black-browed albatrosses. Landings here are made in a pretty cove with its own jetty. There’s a long steep walk up to the colony along a marked trail but it gives time to get some superb views out towards the other islands, and in springtime the air is full of the sweet scent of the gorse bushes that line the route. Their blaze of yellow flowers is a welcome dash of colour. After visiting the bird colonies, visits end in the island’s main farmhouse for an amazing spread of homemade cakes, tea and coffee. This table groaning with goodies should not be missed.
Birdlife big and small
West Point is very close to Carcass Island, and the two islands are often combined in one day. Thanks to the absence of non-native predators such as cats, rats and mice, this island is home to abundant populations of small birds from the endemic Cobb’s wren to flocks of black-chinned siskins, Falkland thrushes and many more. These are mostly found around the sheltered gardens that grow so well in the stand of large trees of the settlement. Many ships use their zodiacs to land at the far side of Port Patterson and then follow the grassy track back to the settlement on a walk of a mile or so. This route leads past a gentoo penguin colony as well as the Magellanic penguins that live here. You can see them standing outside their burrows in the springtime or in little groups on the beach later in the season. On a warm day in late summer this is also a good walk to look for the scarce Queen of the Falkland Fritillary butterfly. A flash of orange at one’s feet is the first indication this colourful butterfly is present but with a little patience one can get a good view as they bask in the sunshine.
A line of distant islands can be seen to the northwest of Carcass Island. These are the Jasons, one of which, Steeple Jason, is occasionally visited by ships. Its exposed landing site means that it’s never easy to access, but it’s very rewarding if you can as it has the largest colony of black-browed albatrosses in the world, stretching for three miles around the coastline. Standing in the tall tussac grass looking at this enormous colony makes for a very memorable day. Albatrosses aren’t the only birds you’ll find there. Gentoo, Magellanic and rockhopper penguins all breed on Steeple Jason and it’s also an excellent place to see striated caracaras and the endemic tussac-birds.
Penguins and dolphins
Saunders Island is the fourth largest island in the Falklands and was also home to the original British settlement back in 1765. If you land here, it’ll be at a narrow isthmus called The Neck, with beautiful sandy beaches on either side. Four species of penguin can easily be spotted here – gentoo penguins on lower beach, Magellanics in their burrows on the slopes above and rockhopper penguins on the rocky edge of the northern beach. There is also a small colony of King Penguins that has been steadily increasing in recent years. Cliffs facing the open sea are also home to another colony of black-browed albatrosses. They’re also a great vantage point to look for the sei whales that feed offshore in late summer and the Commerson’s and Peale’s dolphins that can frequently be found playing in the surf of the beaches below.
Those visiting ships coming to the Falklands from South Georgia or Antarctica occasionally stop at Bleaker Island, lying to the southeast of the islands, and another place with abundant wildlife. As elsewhere, Falkland Islands flightless steamer ducks are common along the shore and the ponds inshore are home to a variety of other waterfowl, including unusual species such as white-winged coot if you’re lucky. The island is also home to a huge colony of imperial cormorant and over 700 pairs of rockhopper penguins. In mid to late summer, it’s also a good place to look for Southern Sea Lions hauled out on the rocks along the shore. There is also a good mix of flora on throughout the spring and summer including the Native Violet so is another good site for the Queen of the Falklands fritillary.
Shorebird galore
After visiting the outlying islands, ships typically then call in at Stanley, the capital of the Falkland Islands. This small town of fewer than 3000 people is home to the excellent Historic Dockyard Museum, which has a variety of galleries containing all sorts of artefacts covering the 1982 War, maritime and social history, local wildlife and the islands’ connections to Antarctic exploration, social history and a wide range of natural history.
Close to town is Gypsy Cove from where one can follow a boardwalk overlooking a cove where Magellanic Penguins breed. Steamer ducks are often seen here as well. The walk stops at a cliff with nesting rock shags and black-crowned night herons, while at Ordinance Point there is an old gun emplacement from the Second World War. The gun sits in a heathland of Diddle-dee, a heather-like plant whose berries are popular with local jam makers – make sure you try some if you can.
An alternative excursion that’s sometimes offered from Stanley is to the lagoon at Bluff Cove, just half an hour’s drive from the capital. There are three species of breeding penguins here – Magellanics, gentoos and kings – as well as a small museum and a lovely café with home-made cakes.
Every visit to the Falkland Islands leaves one wanting to spend more time on these fabulous islands. There is always so much wildlife to see and more areas to explore, so don’t overlook these islands when booking your Antarctica and South Georgia trip.
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